We have a video demonstrating aluminum boat repair: Fixing Leaking Rivets in an Aluminum Boat.
We tried out G/flex to repair leaking aluminum boats. It was surprising to me to discover that almost every aluminum boat owner I spoke to had some kind of leak. I was able to get several aluminum boats from my coworkers for the experiment using G/flex in just three hours.
Finding the leaks
The first step is to find the leak. This is fairly easy—just fill the inside with water up to the waterline. I tilted my boat so that only one side was filled. This reduces the chance of damage or distortion.
Many rivets I found on each boat that I repaired merely drank water. There was also at least one that poured water continuously. These leaks were more serious than the ones that are common during normal boat use. One boat had a bilge pumps to keep the bailing going. I used a black marker to mark any seams or rivets leaking.
The WEST SYSTEM Aluminum Boat Repair Kit 650-K will fix the most common problem in aluminum boats and canoes. Each kit includes 8 ounces G/flex650 Toughened Epoxy, adhesive, filler, application and mixing syringes as well as reusable mixing sticks, protective gloves, and mixing pots. The detailed instructions include illustrations and details on how to fix leaky seams or rivets in aluminum boats. All parts are enclosed in a strong, resealable box.
Making the aluminum boat repair
With the leaks identified and marked, here are the techniques used for the repair. Turn the boat upside-down to get to the bottom. Prepare the surface for bonding. Clean out any debris or other obstructions that may be stuck to the seams. To remove the rivets I used a wire brush to scrub the surface. It was even easier to use a wire brush attachment to a cordless drilling machine. After everything is cleaned up and scrubbed, gather the materials needed: a handheld propane torch and heat gun, a heat lamp, an 804 Syringe as well as paper towels and G/flex650 Epoxy.
Fill the syringe with the G/flex650 Resin and Hardener. I cut the tip of the syringe to enlarge the hole to about 1 16″. Heat the repair area with a propane torch (a heat gun will work) up to 180-220°F to dry out the repair area. Heat drives moisture out of seams and thins the G/flex. This allows it to flow better into seams and rivets.
